[rawfeeding] Digest Number 11746
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1a. Re: day 1, this is going to be a looong haul
From: Giselle
1b. Re: day 1, this is going to be a looong haul
From: costrowski75
1c. ADMIN/Re: day 1, this is going to be a looong haul
From: costrowski75
2a. Re: Just starting out
From: Kathy McCusker
2b. Re: Just starting out
From: Giselle
2c. Re: Just starting out
From: Maiakitas@aol.com
3a. Re: Which bones are best for teeth clean ups?
From: Mary
3b. Re: Which bones are best for teeth clean ups?
From: Alfonso De La Cruz
3c. Re: Which bones are best for teeth clean ups?
From: Giselle
4a. Re: Diarrhea in Newbie Great Dane.
From: Katie Baker
5a. Re: knuckle bones
From: woofwoofgrrl
6a. Adopting dog raw feeding
From: Lori Leonhardt
7a. Re: different cuts of ribs - and lamb/goat cuts
From: Bearhair
7b. Re: different cuts of ribs - and lamb/goat cuts
From: Jessie
7c. Re: different cuts of ribs - and lamb/goat cuts
From: costrowski75
8a. Re: Advice re: softest bones?
From: Bearhair
9a. Re: southern new jersey suppliers
From: Laurie
10a. Re: poop on raw
From: Lindsay Dorian
11a. Re: Very sick puppy
From: chamelett2003
11b. Re: Very sick puppy
From: Giselle
12. The hurls
From: mob1043
13a. Re: Bloat in large dogs
From: Kaity Evans
14a. .........Re: Ok, no more talk about bloat, how about Mountain Oyster
From: costrowski75
14b. Re: .........Re: Ok, no more talk about bloat, how about Mountain Oy
From: Chrissy
15a. Re: Does anyone feed kombucha?
From: costrowski75
Messages
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1a. Re: day 1, this is going to be a looong haul
Posted by: "Giselle" megan.giselle@gmail.com megangiselle
Date: Sat Jun 30, 2007 3:52 pm ((PDT))
Great feeding and training plan!
And, if trading for a higher value treat isn't something he wants to
do at first; make a "Hansel and Gretel" trail on the floor with small
pieces of high value treats away from the rest of the meal, to the
other side of a baby gate. Shut it, give him another piece of treat,
take up the meal, put it in the fridge, and return to him with another
piece of treat. Clean up his spot, return with another piece of treat.
Let him go back to his eating place and offer another piece or two of
treat. High value here means something thats higher value in his eyes,
better than his dinner!
Pretty soon he'll be looking happily to you to see if he can trade up!
TC
Giselle
with Bea in New Jersey
> I'm sure your first reaction is to cut it up smaller but *Don't do
this*! Serving minced meat
> only allows the dog to hoover his food even more, and while it is
manageable to pull a leg
> quarter out of the mouth, it's a whole lot harder to try and pull
out a small chunk of meat.
> The answer is to feed even bigger. Depending on the size of the
dog, I would feed a half
> chicken at a time. You want the food to be bigger than his head,
even if that means it is
> more than one day's worth of food. When he has eaten enough for the
day, trade him what
> he is eating for a high value treat, and put the food away for
later. You can also freeze the
> food to slow them down. Hope this helps!
>
> Andrea
>
Messages in this topic (8)
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1b. Re: day 1, this is going to be a looong haul
Posted by: "costrowski75" Chriso75@AOL.COM costrowski75
Date: Sat Jun 30, 2007 8:33 pm ((PDT))
Linda Edgington <lindagail849@...> wrote:
>
> My dog inhales his food. He has to eat in 2 seconds flat. I started
out with chicken breast. I tried to grab an end of it, and he snarled
at be. Got into trouble right away! Now what do I do?
*****
Feed bigger food. He inhales a chicken breast, feed a chicken quarter
(leg/thigh or wing/breast) or feed a chicken half. Or buy Cornish game
hens and feed them whole. Dogs inhale food if the food is the right
size for inhaling. Clearly what you offered was judged to be a good
size for inhaling, and your dog was right.
It is not a good idea (I think you've found) to grab hold of a dog's
food unless/until the dog fully understands who is the food boss. What
your dog did is regrettable but not unreasonable, given what was at
stake. There are many methods available to help you and your dog work
through this miscommunication. Now's a good time to check them out.
Chris O
Messages in this topic (8)
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1c. ADMIN/Re: day 1, this is going to be a looong haul
Posted by: "costrowski75" Chriso75@AOL.COM costrowski75
Date: Sat Jun 30, 2007 9:14 pm ((PDT))
As some of you predicted, training is not an appropriate topic for the
rawfeeding list. Resource guarding does need to be addressed though,
so please continue this discussion on RawChat, on any one of many
training lists, or take it private.
Thanks.
Chris o
Mod Squad
Messages in this topic (8)
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2a. Re: Just starting out
Posted by: "Kathy McCusker" kmccusker72@hotmail.com kathym14456
Date: Sat Jun 30, 2007 4:03 pm ((PDT))
Thanks for the quick replies. Jagger is 8 months old and 130 lbs.
I've been estimating his adult weight to be 200 lbs. He loves the
food, more so than any other food I have fed him. We just got back
from his first dog show and he is exhausted but still ate like a
trooper. He does have issues with ithcy skin, didn't do well with
flea meds., made it worse. His itching is not as bad as it used to
be. Anyhow, got alot of compliments from the judges. He took 1st. in
group yesterday and today and reserve winners yesterday. Really
surprised me for his first time out. Thanks again, Kathy
--- In rawfeeding@yahoogroups.com, "Elizabeth" <rainsou1@...> wrote:
>
> Kathy,
> For some dogs there are longer adjustment periods than others. How
> much/often are you feeding him? Make sure you are feeding him his
> expected adult size in meal amounts, OR about 10% of his current
body
> weight. You'll have to feed him about 4 times a day to get all that
> food in there! Warning: Poop WILL be minimal.;)
> -Liz
>
>
>
> In rawfeeding@yahoogroups.com, "Kathy McCusker" <kmccusker72@>
wrote:
> >
> > I am alittle
> > concerned about his activity level. He doesn't seem to be as
active as
> > he used to be. Maybe he was hyper and I didn't really realize
it. He
> > is content to lay around and sleep in the house. He will play
outside
> > but as soon as he hits the house he is asleep again. He has also
had
> > somewhat watery stool along with formed. Much smaller amounts
than he
> > used to have. I just want to make sure he is reacting properly.
Is
> > there an adjusment period? Thanks, KathyM
> >
>
Messages in this topic (13)
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2b. Re: Just starting out
Posted by: "Giselle" megan.giselle@gmail.com megangiselle
Date: Sat Jun 30, 2007 5:02 pm ((PDT))
Congratulations on your wins, Kathy!
Salmon or Fish Body oil can help with the itchies.
Do a search for Omega 3, Salmon oil or Fish Body oil for the most
recent discussions on best brands, dosages, etc.
TC
Giselle
> Thanks for the quick replies. Jagger is 8 months old and 130 lbs.
> I've been estimating his adult weight to be 200 lbs. He loves the
> food, more so than any other food I have fed him. We just got back
> from his first dog show and he is exhausted but still ate like a
> trooper. He does have issues with itchy skin, didn't do well with
> flea meds., made it worse. His itching is not as bad as it used to
> be. Anyhow, got a lot of compliments from the judges. He took 1st. in
> group yesterday and today and reserve winners yesterday. Really
> surprised me for his first time out. Thanks again, Kathy
Messages in this topic (13)
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2c. Re: Just starting out
Posted by: "Maiakitas@aol.com" Maiakitas@aol.com maiakitas
Date: Sat Jun 30, 2007 5:11 pm ((PDT))
Kathy,
Congratulations on the wins at the dog shows this weekend. Pretty darn
impressive for a baby! :o)
Regards,
Carla
**************************************
See what's free at
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Messages in this topic (13)
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3a. Re: Which bones are best for teeth clean ups?
Posted by: "Mary" halle4@comcast.net hallebest
Date: Sat Jun 30, 2007 5:12 pm ((PDT))
My Chinese Crested has poor dentition as most do and he does great with rib bones, pork bones and chicken feet. I feed the chicken feet partially frozen and because the nails look pretty sharp in the frozen state, I clip the nails off before giving them to him. Many emails on this list have said beef bones were too hard for dogs and can cause teeth to crack. This would be true for small and large dogs.
Mary in PA
Subject: [rawfeeding] Which bones are best for teeth clean ups?
I have 2 small Yorkshire Terriers, 11 years and 18 weeks old. Are beef ribs to hard, too? Strictly as a mouth clean up- which meaty bones would be best?
Both do great on raw, but I have to score the meat for them still as it
would take them forever otherwise and then lose interest! They love to
chew on "fake", commercial type bones, but I don't want to give those
to them anymore and I also think those do more harm than good! I
searched the topics but haven't found a safisfactory answer. Any
thoughts?
Thanks
Nadia, Toy and Gia
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Messages in this topic (6)
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3b. Re: Which bones are best for teeth clean ups?
Posted by: "Alfonso De La Cruz" chickendido@hotmail.com chickendido2006
Date: Sat Jun 30, 2007 8:24 pm ((PDT))
Thanks for some of the input! So far I read that weight bearing beef bones are too hard, but what about beef ribs? Or ribs from any other kind of animal? If ribs are ok, what do I need to watch out for, meaning make sure that the rib itself was left intact and hasn't been cut or sawed? I would like to feed beef ribs with meat on it, not just the bone by itself! Ugh, I hope I explained it right this time! lol
The reason for all of this hoopla is that I scored a free slab of beef ribs from my meat vendor and we don't eat ribs, but I took it anyways in hopes of feeding it to my Yorkies, but I won't do it if it'll crack their teeth
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Messages in this topic (6)
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3c. Re: Which bones are best for teeth clean ups?
Posted by: "Giselle" megan.giselle@gmail.com megangiselle
Date: Sat Jun 30, 2007 9:06 pm ((PDT))
Hi, Alphonso!
The ribs are really too hard for the Yorkies to consume, but I'd let
them each tear at one until all the meat, etc. is gone. Then I'd toss
it out. Be aware that they may be too fatty for them, I probably would
cut a bunch of fat off first, if they were my guys. There is usually a
smaller bone at the end of each rib, but that should be too big to
worry about with your littles, too.
Lamb breast has smaller and softer bones. That might be a better
choice if you ever plan to buy ribs for them. I'd rather spend my
dollars on meatiermeat, personally.
You don't need a lot of bone to get clean teeth. Only 10% of the diet
should be edible bone. Large portions, bigger than their heads (maybe
bodies!) with lots of meat & no bone can be a really great, engaging
physical and dental workout. A chicken quarter, or half a Game hen,
or whole small rabbit can be a great workout for a tiny dog. When
they've eaten enough, take it up and put in the fridge until the next
mealtime.
TC
Giselle
with Bea in New Jersey
> Thanks for some of the input! So far I read that weight bearing beef
bones are too hard, but what about beef ribs? Or ribs from any other
kind of animal? If ribs are ok, what do I need to watch out for,
meaning make sure that the rib itself was left intact and hasn't been
cut or sawed? I would like to feed beef ribs with meat on it, not just
the bone by itself! Ugh, I hope I explained it right this time! lol
> The reason for all of this hoopla is that I scored a free slab of
beef ribs from my meat vendor and we don't eat ribs, but I took it
anyways in hopes of feeding it to my Yorkies, but I won't do it if
it'll crack their teeth
Messages in this topic (6)
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4a. Re: Diarrhea in Newbie Great Dane.
Posted by: "Katie Baker" declansmama@gmail.com katherinebaker2
Date: Sat Jun 30, 2007 5:12 pm ((PDT))
--- In rawfeeding@yahoogroups.com, "Andrea" <poketmouse45@...> wrote:
>
> Hi, Katie, congrats on the new pup! When you say her poop isn't
solid, is it completely
> watery, or does it have some substance? Has she been checked for
intestinal parasites? If
> she's clear of worms etc, I think maybe three meals a day would be
better for her. If she's
> getting too much food at once, that could do it. Let us know how
it goes.
>
> Andrea
>
No, we haven't had her checked for parasites. I guess it never
crossed my mind because we were thinking the dramatic food switch
was causing the upset.
For the most part her poop is completely watery, and will
occasionally have some solider (is that a word?) chunks in it.
We'll try feeder her less more often too.
Thanks!
-Katie
Messages in this topic (3)
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5a. Re: knuckle bones
Posted by: "woofwoofgrrl" cmc4lists1@gastrounit.com woofwoofgrrl
Date: Sat Jun 30, 2007 5:12 pm ((PDT))
From all the replies to this, it sounds like we got away cheap with
only a $500 extraction when my BC broke her tooth on one!
BTW, I still have the tooth, it was one of her canines and the "root"
portion of the tooth is actually bigger than the the tooth portion of
the tooth - now that's a tooth designed for pullin' apart carcasses!!!
Christine
brutus_buckley wrote:
> Debbie,
> Most people don't know the dangers of these bones until it happens to
> their dog/s. Doesn't help that many of the meatless knuckle, soup and
> femur bones are sold as "doggy bones." It's simply not worth the risk.
> -Renee W.
>
Messages in this topic (21)
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6a. Adopting dog raw feeding
Posted by: "Lori Leonhardt" lorileonhardt@yahoo.com lorileonhardt
Date: Sat Jun 30, 2007 5:13 pm ((PDT))
Hi Evie
As president of a rescue and raw feeder, tell them the truth. You would be surprised at how many rescue people feed raw or are familiar with the raw diet.
Lori Leonhardt
Catahoula United Rescue Society, Inc - CURS
Website: www.catahoulaunited.com
---------------------------------
Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows.
Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
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Messages in this topic (2)
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7a. Re: different cuts of ribs - and lamb/goat cuts
Posted by: "Bearhair" bearhair@spamcop.net bearhair61
Date: Sat Jun 30, 2007 5:15 pm ((PDT))
Jessie wrote:
>I'm looking to start feeding ribs that I can find at a decent
>price.
Ribs have a huge amount of bone compared to meat . . . ? I recommend you go
for pork shoulders, bone-in beef roasts, as well as lamb and goat.
>The way the price list is set up, he has a "6 way" lamb and goat . . .
>I have no idea how to order or what to order from
>these guys. I would assume I could tell him any sort of roast cut
>to get a big hunk of meat correct?
Pictures of sheep cuts:
>http://www.pilotbrands.com/lambaus/html/s_bonein.html
and goat cuts:
>http://www.pilotbrands.com/lambaus/html/g_spec.html
Note that this site is in Australia and some cuts may not be allowed in the
US by the USDA.
>Beef:
Short ribs http://www.pilotbrands.com/lambaus/html/b1690.html
and page 37 and 56 of this very interactively-coded PDF:
http://www.beefretail.org/uDocs/urmis/contents/beef.pdf
Spare ribs http://www.pilotbrands.com/lambaus/html/b1695.html
Flanken style ribs
Page 56 of the interactive guide:
>http://www.beefretail.org/uDocs/urmis/contents/beef.pdf
Back ribs
Page 59
>http://www.beefretail.org/uDocs/urmis/contents/beef.pdf
>Pork:
>St. Lous Ribs $2.79
>5 Up Ribs $1.79
>Spare Ribs $2.39
>Riblets $2.89
>Baby Back $4.59
Page 33 and 45 in
>http://www.beefretail.org/uDocs/urmis/contents/beef.pdf
5 up ribs seem to be a type of sparerib.
>Now, I'd assume the pricier ribs are more meat and less bone? Are
>there any ribs you would consider to have completely too big bones
>that are either inedible or just too risky to feed?
"Pork ribs and the various terms used to describe them are a huge source of
confusion, so we'll dive a little deeper into the descriptions. There are two
common types of pork ribs - spareribs, which come from the belly, and back
ribs, which come from the loin . . . Spareribs are larger in size, contain
more meat and more fat, and are somewhat less tender than back ribs . . . ;
spareribs are about 30% less expensive than back ribs.
There are couple of options with respect to the trimming of a sparerib. A
whole slab of sparerib will have part of the sternum (breast bone) still
attached with a strip of meat and rib cartilage along the edge of the slab,
plus a flap of meat attached to the bone side of the slab, known as the
skirt. Leaving the skirt attached is the more common way of selling
spareribs. If the sternum and cartilage are removed and the skirt is left on,
the result is referred to as "St. Louis Style" spareribs. If you remove the
skirt as well, you're left with "Kansas City Style" sparerib. We've seen
these reference names reversed in many cookbooks, so it is best to describe
exactly what you want rather than rely on the inconsistent city styles. . . .
One final point on the trimming of ribs: there is a membrane on the bone-side
of ribs. Smoke and seasoning will not penetrate the tough membrane, so this
membrane should be removed before cooking. Any good butcher shop will sell
ribs only with the membrane already removed."
>http://www.thehealthybutcher.com/livetoeat/volume15/LiveToEat-Volume15-BreakingDownThePork.html
Lora
Evanston, IL
Messages in this topic (5)
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7b. Re: different cuts of ribs - and lamb/goat cuts
Posted by: "Jessie" O_snobunnie_O@hotmail.com osnobunnieo
Date: Sat Jun 30, 2007 7:39 pm ((PDT))
> Hi, Jessie!
> Whyever would you want to buy and feed *just* ribs when you have
the
> option of getting 6 way lamb and goat cuts? I'd buy 'em just like
> that, sounds just ducky to me!
Well I do plan on buying up the meatier portions as well, but Brody
really seems to do better with a little more bone in her diet than
she does with less. So far, the only bone she gets are from chicken
(whole, split into halves or quarters depending on size) or turkey
necks. I'm not bothering with pork necks for now because the only
ones I can find are pretty solid bone with little meat on them.
I'm trying to find more options for bone-in meats to feet her.
I did go to the grocery store today to see what I could find on sale
(I'm running low on meat and won't be ordering from my supplier
until Monday... but usually the actual meat there is higher than
sale priced grocery store meats). The pork boston butts and
pork "country style" ribs were both the same price so I got one of
each. I got home and started cutting and packing everything and
realized there were only two or three ribs with any bone (and they
were very tiny at that) and the rest were just slabs of meat. Not
too shabby ;) And also glad to see that the bone in the boston butt
was only the size of a quarter! Score again!! I usually grab the
hunks with about a 1/4lb bone I'm too afraid to give her to chew on.
And those websites are a great help. I scanned them quickly and
will look more in depth tomorrow (its getting late and I'm too tired
to concentrate). Thank you so much!!
Jessie
Messages in this topic (5)
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7c. Re: different cuts of ribs - and lamb/goat cuts
Posted by: "costrowski75" Chriso75@AOL.COM costrowski75
Date: Sat Jun 30, 2007 9:07 pm ((PDT))
"Jessie" <O_snobunnie_O@...> wrote:
he has a "6 way" lamb and goat...
> which I know would be the entire thing split into six parts. For
> like $0.15 more per pound you can get whatever cut you want.
*****
Take the goat 6-way! For a 60lb dog, you don't want it cut up more
than that...goat is easy eating. What happens when you get it cut up
more is you get silly small hunks and chunks. Not condusive to full
body workouts at all. Doesn't matter if your dog is a thorough
chewer--small hunks cannot provide the interaction that big body
parts do.
>I would assume I could tell him any sort of roast cut
> to get a big hunk of meat correct?
*****
Yup. When you buy meat big, you can always cut it smaller; you
cannot make small chunks or ground meat large.
> Beef:
> Short Ribs $2.29
> Flanking Ribs $2.29
> Beef Back Ribs $1.79
*****
Short ribs unless you can get them intact are, well, too short. They
come separately, not joined in a rack, so each one (even if fully
long) can be interpreted as a lovely shape for effortless swallowing
IF one's dog is thusly misguided. I cannot feed short ribs to my
dogs since not a one is a gentle eater. Short ribs, like turkey
necks, are very much a "know your dog" thing.
My understanding of flanking (or flanked, or flanken) ribs are
ribbons of rib bone alternating with meat. The result is, if I am
interpreting this correctly, is a bunch of ribs chunks and not much
meat. I used to give my cat one of these strips, once in a while,
til she decided that beef was best horked up and forgotten. I could
not in good conscience give these to my dogs, not even my bc pup (who
is nine months old today).
I've only seen beef spare ribs, so I can't address beef back ribs.
Or maybe I've seen beef back ribs but don't know it. Either way, I'm
no help.
> Pork:
> St. Lous Ribs $2.79
> 5 Up Ribs $1.79
> Spare Ribs $2.39
> Riblets $2.89
> Baby Back $4.59
*****
Ugh.
No good prices here at all, IMO. I mean, not for dogs (I am cheap).
Riblets should not be that expensive! What part of the country you
in? I don't know 5 Up Ribs...but that's what I would expect to pay
for spare ribs, or less. You might ask about pork brisket bone; here
in Sacramento both riblets and brisket bone are about a dollar a
pound from a wholesaler, bulk. Brisket bone is more bone and less
meat but generally costs even less than riblets.
Now, I'd assume the pricier ribs are more meat and less bone?
*****
I can't recall baby backs having more meat than spare ribs, but it's
possible they are leaner. I've always fed spare ribs, for better or
worse.
Chris O
Messages in this topic (5)
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8a. Re: Advice re: softest bones?
Posted by: "Bearhair" bearhair@spamcop.net bearhair61
Date: Sat Jun 30, 2007 5:16 pm ((PDT))
Sam wrote:
>++++Mod note: please sign all emails ++++++++++++
>
>
> . . . wondering what animals
>are best in terms of soft bones...are chicken legs too
>hard and crunchy? I picked up some oxtail and lamb
>ribs at the bucther am will try anything that you guys
>think would be a good idea... so angry at myself re
>the beef necks...
You had written previously:
"We've been feeding our Australian Shepherd along the prey model largely
consisting of duck anbd chicken, "
This confuses me when you now ask whether chicken legs are too hard . . . can
you tell us exactly what it is you're feeding right now? If you're feeding
prey-model, they're eating the entire chicken or duck (over time).
Oxtail should be fed whole - a length of tail, not the
chopped-between-each-vertebra version usually sold.
Lamb bones are very edible.
But again, feeding edible bone to keep your dog busy MUST be accounted for in
his diet, so you'll need lots of meat to compensate . . . without
overfeeding.
Lora
Evanston, IL
Messages in this topic (4)
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9a. Re: southern new jersey suppliers
Posted by: "Laurie" lhsearch1@verizon.net lauriescritters
Date: Sat Jun 30, 2007 5:46 pm ((PDT))
--- In rawfeeding@yahoogroups.com, Andrew Leahey <aleahey@...> wrote:
>
> lauriescritters wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hi, I just joined the list and live in Central NJ - Hopewell. I am
> > also looking for suppliers and was wondering if you've had any luck
> > since you posted this question. I DO have a supplier for fish if you
> > are interested.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Laurie
> >
> >
> Not the OP here, but I would be interested as I am in South/Central
> Jersey as well. Fish you say? :)
>
> --Andrew
>
Sorry I didn't respond sooner!! (My bad) The fish supplier is Archar
Seafood, 725 Hamilton St in Somerset, NJ 732-249-5835.
Laurie
Messages in this topic (7)
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10a. Re: poop on raw
Posted by: "Lindsay Dorian" iamentropygirl@gmail.com irwin_bird
Date: Sat Jun 30, 2007 7:30 pm ((PDT))
My cat has been on raw about 12 weeks. She used to poop in the houseplants
if she was to lazy to go to the litter or outside.. not sure if she has
stopped because she goes less on raw, or if it just doesn't smell, or
degrades really fast, but by 2 weeks on raw we no longer had smelly
houseplants : )
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Messages in this topic (10)
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11a. Re: Very sick puppy
Posted by: "chamelett2003" chamelett2003@yahoo.com chamelett2003
Date: Sat Jun 30, 2007 7:42 pm ((PDT))
--- In rawfeeding@yahoogroups.com, "tottime47" <tottime@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Jill,
>
> I think we need more information.
>
> She quit eating 2 wks ago and you took her to the Vet right away or
> waited two weeks?
>
> What did the Vet say was wrong with her?
>
> If your other two dogs are thriving after a year on raw, why would
> you feel she wouldn't be better on raw too?
>
> Carol & Charkee
>
Hi,
About two weeks ago she started refusing pork for two days. I changed
to chicken. She ate a little that day then refused the next day. She
was wanting to hang out in her bed all the time. Then next morning
she was vomiting projectile green liquid. It was Tuesday. I could not
go to work all day and leave her that way. I called the vet at 8am.
They had me come in the back way stepping in bleach solution. Neg for
parvo, palpated her abdomin, looked in her mouth. Put her on
peptobismol 0.5 ml twice a day, small amounts of meat human baby
food. She ate very tiny amounts of baby food and would take three
licks of water a few times of times a day. For the next several days.
She weighed 5lbs at that time. Saturday she refused to eat her baby
food. She started having green liquid stools on Sunday. I took her to
the vet again on Monday morning. Same back door treatment. Neg again
for Parvo. Weighed 4.2 lbs. Drew blood for labs, injected 100cc LR
under skin, checked her blood sugar 59. She was very wobbly and weak.
sold me some Nutrical paste to give her 2 inches every hour to get
some nutrition in her and get her blood sugar up. DC'd the pepto and
give regalan twice a day feeding her baby food meat one hour after
each dose of the METOCLOPRAMIDE. Call the next am for lab results.
Nothing significanly abnormal except glucose 39, low albumin and
calcium from Malnutrition of course. She continued to refuse the baby
food. I kept forcing the nutri-cal paste to keep her from going into
a coma. Back to the vet with a stool sample and I bought a IV liter
bag of LR from a different vet so I could infuse fluids under her
skin. Wednesday the stool results were all negative. By then I was
also force feeding the baby food mixed with a little water in a 1cc
syring. WAs told to give her amoxicillin 0.5ml twice a day. That she
has gastritis but we don't know why and that if she doesn't have a
bacterial infection in her gut she will soon with all the is going
on. By the time I was able to start the antibiotics she has blood
tinged liquid stool (Thursday). Friday when I got home form work she
wanted out of her great dane crate were her bed water and pee pad
are. She had some energy, her eyes were brighter and she was
starving. She drank more than three licks of water and kept it down.
so I skipped the LR injection. I cooked some chicken as she still
refused to eat the baby food. She wanted more and more chicken but I
would only give her a small piece about every hour for the next four
hours. Her stools got more contisantcy to them to the point of being
just mushy. Now today Saturday she ate some more cooked chicken but
this afternoon She is squirting green liquid again. DARN.
Jill
Messages in this topic (12)
________________________________________________________________________
11b. Re: Very sick puppy
Posted by: "Giselle" megan.giselle@gmail.com megangiselle
Date: Sat Jun 30, 2007 7:58 pm ((PDT))
Hi, Jill!
It sounds like she has had some sort of parasite or infection that the
vet isn't finding. Sometimes, even after the initial catalyzing factor
is gone, once a dog's digestive system is irritated, it can stay that
way until the cycle is interrupted.
The antibiotics, while they may get rid of an infection, if one is
present, will NOT help the gastritis.
I'd give her Slippery Elm Bark Powder, either in a water paste, or in
a bit of ground chicken. I'd give her a 1/4 tsp. several times a day
to soothe her gut. Fasting may not be possible with such a tiny dog,
but try getting some SEBP into her and fast for at least a meal or
two. When you reintroduce food, I'd offer tiny bits of raw chicken, no
skin or fat, no organ, boneless. Give the SEBP frequently, especially
just before feeding.
You can buy SEBP at health food stores, in loose or capsule form.
Make sure she has plenty of fluids, even if you have to continue to
inject subQ for now.
TC
Giselle
with Bea in New Jersey
> Hi,
> About two weeks ago she started refusing pork for two days. I changed
> to chicken. She ate a little that day then refused the next day. She
> was wanting to hang out in her bed all the time. Then next morning
> she was vomiting projectile green liquid. It was Tuesday. I could not
> go to work all day and leave her that way. I called the vet at 8am.
> They had me come in the back way stepping in bleach solution. Neg for
> parvo, palpated her abdomin, looked in her mouth. Put her on
> peptobismol 0.5 ml twice a day, small amounts of meat human baby
> food. She ate very tiny amounts of baby food and would take three
> licks of water a few times of times a day. For the next several days.
> She weighed 5lbs at that time. Saturday she refused to eat her baby
> food. She started having green liquid stools on Sunday. I took her to
> the vet again on Monday morning. Same back door treatment. Neg again
> for Parvo. Weighed 4.2 lbs. Drew blood for labs, injected 100cc LR
> under skin, checked her blood sugar 59. She was very wobbly and weak.
> sold me some Nutrical paste to give her 2 inches every hour to get
> some nutrition in her and get her blood sugar up. DC'd the pepto and
> give regalan twice a day feeding her baby food meat one hour after
> each dose of the METOCLOPRAMIDE. Call the next am for lab results.
> Nothing significanly abnormal except glucose 39, low albumin and
> calcium from Malnutrition of course. She continued to refuse the baby
> food. I kept forcing the nutri-cal paste to keep her from going into
> a coma. Back to the vet with a stool sample and I bought a IV liter
> bag of LR from a different vet so I could infuse fluids under her
> skin. Wednesday the stool results were all negative. By then I was
> also force feeding the baby food mixed with a little water in a 1cc
> syring. WAs told to give her amoxicillin 0.5ml twice a day. That she
> has gastritis but we don't know why and that if she doesn't have a
> bacterial infection in her gut she will soon with all the is going
> on. By the time I was able to start the antibiotics she has blood
> tinged liquid stool (Thursday). Friday when I got home form work she
> wanted out of her great dane crate were her bed water and pee pad
> are. She had some energy, her eyes were brighter and she was
> starving. She drank more than three licks of water and kept it down.
> so I skipped the LR injection. I cooked some chicken as she still
> refused to eat the baby food. She wanted more and more chicken but I
> would only give her a small piece about every hour for the next four
> hours. Her stools got more consistency to them to the point of being
> just mushy. Now today Saturday she ate some more cooked chicken but
> this afternoon She is squirting green liquid again. DARN.
> Jill
>
Messages in this topic (12)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
12. The hurls
Posted by: "mob1043" ynotbeastar@marykay.com mob1043
Date: Sat Jun 30, 2007 8:03 pm ((PDT))
It seems my Great Pyrenees, is tossing up his food. I feed him about 2
1/2 lbs per day once am & once pm. I am giving chicken for the week.
I have been giving only 10% organ (gizzards) along with drumsticks or
breast to make up his meal.
He has a special place he takes his bones and foods to snack and that
is where I have found his fermenting piles. Is this normal or what
mistakes do you think I am making?
Thank you,
Michele
Messages in this topic (1)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
13a. Re: Bloat in large dogs
Posted by: "Kaity Evans" Aleighanra@aol.com aleighanra
Date: Sat Jun 30, 2007 8:22 pm ((PDT))
So i guess I'm not so crazy after all. I am right in the middle.
Elevated water dish, dinner on the floor, laying down and only one
meal a day. Oh well. I guess we're all wrong.
-Kaity
--- In rawfeeding@yahoogroups.com, "Scott Baker" <scottsbaker@...> wrote:
>
> I do the exact opposite. I have a bullmastiff (15months) and feed
just once
> a day, usually in the evening before bed, but it can be more random.
I find
> splitting the meals up made them far too small, and not in the least bit
> challenging.
>
>
>
> > Hi all.
> >
> > I have 2 bullmastiffs (6mos) and a great pyrenees along with an irish
> > wolfhound/border
> > collie mix. I have always fed the puppies in a raised dish, but the
> > pyrenees takes all food
> > out of his dish and drags it away to eat. Even when he was fed
k****e he
> > would knock the
> > bowl over to eat off the ground. I always hope he won't bloat from
this
> > practice.
> >
> > They all gulp down their food so fast now that they are eating raw
so I a
> > feed twice a day
> > so they don't have such a big meal in the am and they get exercise
> > throughout the day.
> >
> > Michele
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Scott
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Messages in this topic (20)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
14a. .........Re: Ok, no more talk about bloat, how about Mountain Oyster
Posted by: "costrowski75" Chriso75@AOL.COM costrowski75
Date: Sat Jun 30, 2007 8:36 pm ((PDT))
"tottime47" <tottime@...> wrote:
>> Can you believe I found some Buffalo roast here for $3.69 a pound
>
> I was too stunned to buy more than 1, have to go back and see if I
> can buy some more at that price....
>
> Thought it was a good price as the local farmers market was selling
> it for $22.00 a lb.
*****
Holy smackdown.
Is it possible that buffalo meat is worth 22 bucks a pound? I'll bet
you could get venison for less than that--not to mention some very nice
goat and lamb.
Wowsa!
Chris O
Messages in this topic (20)
________________________________________________________________________
14b. Re: .........Re: Ok, no more talk about bloat, how about Mountain Oy
Posted by: "Chrissy" hylesrayburn@sbcglobal.net tresuregarden
Date: Sat Jun 30, 2007 10:43 pm ((PDT))
Isn't it shocking some of the prices out there. I regret not getting the Sheep nuggets and tripe and well all that good doggie stuff when I had the lambs slaughtered early spring. I was going to ask about those bits and see if anyone fed them, we never used them we gave those away. but I know where bully sticks come from.... so I cant imagine it being to out there.
I have a ram who is pushing it.. he is 250+ lbs (he likes to head but me) and he will make a few dogs at my and my moms house very happy campers
Chrissy
----- Original Message -----
>
> Thought it was a good price as the local farmers market was selling
> it for $22.00 a lb.
*****
Holy smackdown.
Is it possible that buffalo meat is worth 22 bucks a pound? I'll bet
you could get venison for less than that--not to mention some very nice
goat and lamb.
.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Messages in this topic (20)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
15a. Re: Does anyone feed kombucha?
Posted by: "costrowski75" Chriso75@AOL.COM costrowski75
Date: Sat Jun 30, 2007 8:37 pm ((PDT))
"Kari Carlisle" <kari@...> wrote:
>
> I've heard the mushroom itself and the tea are good to feed in small
> amounts.
*****
Hmm.
To what end?
Chris O
Messages in this topic (3)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
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